Here's the single most reliable way to save money on cars: Keep your clunker and
drive it till it drops.
A decently cared-for vehicle should still be running long after the odometer has
clocked 100,000 miles. Keep driving it and you save money not only because you don't
have to make payments on a new car, but also because insurance premiums are lower, and in
some states, so are registration fees and personal-property taxes.
Unfortunately, at some point the statute of limitations runs out on this particular
money-saving tip. The more the car is in the shop, and the wider the oil slick grows on
your usual parking spot, the more you may think seriously about replacing the old chariot
with something, well, nicer. Meanwhile, the money you save by not buying a new car tends
to be eaten up by the growing cost of keeping the old one on the road.
The question is: Where's the tipping point? How long does it take for the higher
cost of purchasing a new car to be justified by the growing cost of maintaining the old
one?
Longer than you think. Runzheimer International, a management consulting firm that
specializes in measuring travel and living costs, runs this sort of calculation on a
regular basis. Recently it compared ownership costs of a brand-new car against a similar
four-year-old car. Both were sensible sedans. The new car was assumed to cost $20,000,
financed over four years at 9%. The old car was worth about $4,500 and was assumed to be
traded in as the down payment on the new one. The old car has 60,000 miles on it, both
cars are driven 15,000 miles per year, and both get 21 miles to the gallon of regular
unleaded gas.
Here's how four years with car payments and low maintenance costs matched up against
four years without car payments but higher maintenance costs:
OLD CAR
NEW CAR
Mileage at end of four years
120,000
60,000
Total car payments
$0
$18,246
Gas and oil
3,456
3,348
License, registration, taxes
1,347
1,882
Insurance
3,457
3,946
Repairs, maintenance, tires
5,022
2,744
Resale value at end
451
7,408
Total expenses
$13,282
$30,166
(minus resale value)
-451
-7,408
Total costs
$12,831
$22,758
Difference
$9,927
Source: Runzheimer International
The actual numbers are less important than the overriding message: Those loan payments
stack the deck against a new car. You could encounter much higher repair costs than
assumed and still come out ahead by keeping the old one. If you're confronting this
question, you can use the format above to run estimated numbers and see how they come out.
Better yet, don't bother. In the absence of a gigantic repair bill -- you need a new
engine, for example -- an old car is almost always cheaper to own than a new one. You can
close the gap a bit with a couple of strategies.
Pay cash. This will reduce your total expense by eliminating the
interest on the loan, but in order to make a fair comparison you'd also have to take
into account what else you might have done with that money and the interest you might have
earned if you hadn't spent it on a car.
Pay a lower interest rate. A lower rate helps. But if you eliminated
all the interest in the example above, the old car would still be about $6,300 cheaper to
own than the new one over the four-year period.
Buy a used car. This is probably your best bet to close the gap
completely. The problem is, a used car doesn't come with a new-car warranty, so you
take on the same risks of unanticipated high repair bills that you already have with the
car you've got.
But let's face it: When all is said and done, most of us don't base decisions
on such a detailed accounting of the costs. Comfort, style, image, safety, convenience and
reliability -- these are the forces motivating the vast majority of Americans who decide
to buy a new car. So be it. The important thing is to choose the right car and get to the
best possible deal.